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current biology vol 23 no 9 r354 guest editorial unanswered that would help carry the humans cannot survive as pure integration substantially further what carnivores unless their meat contains are ...

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                Current Biology Vol 23 No 9
                R354
                 Guest editorial                               unanswered that would help carry the           Humans cannot survive as pure 
                                                               integration substantially further — what       carnivores unless their meat contains 
                                                               are humans adapted to eat?                     Arctic levels of fat in the form of rich 
                                                                 The major consensus solution is the          layers of blubber. The meat idea can 
                The evolution of                               weakly general claim that, compared            at best be only part of the solution for 
                human nutrition                                to other primates, our species is              an originally tropical animal.
                                                               adapted to high-quality omnivorous               Second is the hypothesis that 
                                                               diets. But what does this mean in              humans are uniquely adapted to a high 
                Richard Wrangham                               terms of biological adaptation? Is             proportion of starch in our diets. More 
                                                               there a particular kind of food item,          than 50% of calories worldwide are 
                This issue of Current Biology addresses        or combination of items, that humans           estimated to come from starch, and 
                the biology of food. Scientific and            need to thrive? Also, how does the             hunter-gatherers in every continent 
                public interest in food covers many            answer to this question affect our             regularly exploit starch-rich foods such 
                different perspectives, but since there        understanding of human anatomy                 as tubers, rhizomes, corms and seeds. 
                is no discipline of food, food research        and physiology? Evolutionary                   Duplication of human genes for amylase 
                tends to be carried out separately in          anthropologists have mostly focused            (a starch-digesting enzyme) support the 
                such areas as ecology, physiology,             their answers to these more specific           notion of humans being better adapted 
                and the neurosciences. The integration         questions on food choices, suggesting          to starchy foods than the great apes. 
                promised by Current Biology’s multiple         three main kinds of solution.                  Yet against the supposed importance of 
                reviews is therefore particularly                First, many paleoanthropologists             starch as an ancient adaptation, most 
                valuable.                                      and archaeologists have long argued            contemporary sources of starch are 
                  Even areas of investigation with             that the dietary specialty of the              recently domesticated grains such as 
                such similar interests as the nutritional      human lineage is the inclusion of              rice and wheat, whose wild ancestors 
                sciences and evolutionary biology              meat and other protein-rich foods              were probably rarely eaten until shortly 
                can benefit from a closer working              from large animals. In favor of this           before the agricultural revolution tamed 
                relationship. Strikingly, despite the fact     idea, meat normally makes up 40%               them about 10,000 years ago. The fossil 
                that studies of nutrition and research         or more of the diets of recent hunter-         record of starch eating is frustratingly 
                on human evolution emerged in                  gatherers — certainly a much larger            shallow, stretching only to some 50,000 
                                       th                      proportion than in other primates.             years for starches trapped in neandertal 
                parallel in the mid-19  century, and 
                that both studies are concerned with           Meat eating was first evidenced 2.6            dental calculus. Furthermore, humans 
                biological adaptation including the            million years ago, from cut marks              do not need starch for survival. Arctic-
                importance of food, these sciences             on bones about the time of the                 adapted hunter-gatherers live on purely 
                have such different aims that they             earliest Homo. So meat is indeed a             animal-based diets, their intake limited 
                have never informed each other richly.         human specialty. Apparent genetic              to protein, fat and a little glycogen 
                While many nutritionists might be              adaptation of apolipoprotein towards           found in liver.
                interested to know how selection has           meat-adaptive variants, and our                  Third, troubled by the fact that human 
                shaped human dietary needs and                 need for vitamin B12 (obtainable only          populations can flourish on diets that 
                adaptability, nevertheless their core          from animals) provide supporting               are almost meat-free or starch-free, 
                concern is the public health problem           points. Yet meat as a driver of human          some anthropologists have suggested 
                of ensuring nutritional adequacy. And          adaptation fits poorly with the small,         that variability in diet composition is 
                while evolutionary biologists might use        blunt teeth of humans, the fact that           the very feature to which our species 
                humans as a model organism for some            vegetarians thrive, and the even more          is adapted. Diet compositions have 
                studies, human feeding systems with            important point that too much meat             indeed likely varied over evolutionary 
                their meals and cuisine and modern             protein is physiologically damaging.           time, much as they do across the 
                problems of obesity are too different 
                from those of other animals to fit easily 
                into comparisons with other species. 
                  Thus, occasional efforts to reconcile 
                nutrition and evolution are to be 
                welcomed, including a book that goes 
                further than any other in pulling the 
                two fields together — Evolving Human 
                Nutrition by Ulijaszek, Mann and Elton 
                [1]. Ulijaszek et al. document variation 
                in nutritional needs and food choice 
                among individuals, populations and 
                species, discuss theories of how 
                human diet has evolved, and combine 
                their review of physiology with societal 
                problems of food distribution, cultural 
                norms and globalization. Yet, despite 
                their thorough approach to seeing 
                human nutrition in broad overview, 
                even they leave a core question                Figure 1. Cooked evening meals are a universal cross-cultural practice. (Photo: Richard Wrangham.)
               Special Issue
               R355
               world today. However, against the idea     food resource [3]. Current evidence        caloric equivalence whether or not a 
               that humans have unusually diverse         therefore indicates that humans            food is cooked is known to be wrong 
               diets, in any one location humans eat      would be incapable of maintaining a        for starch-rich foods, and can be 
               a greatly restricted range of plants       population if they lived on raw foods      assumed to be wrong for almost any 
               compared to great apes. For example,       under conditions of hunting, gathering     food. So our failure to appreciate the 
               the flora of southeast Guinea has          or growing their own foods.                importance of cooking has permeated 
               been characterized in an area of forest      The cooked food solution to the          nutrition as much as traditional 
               and farm bush occupied by about            problem of ‘what are humans adapted        evolutionary anthropology, and the 
               20 chimpanzees and 2,500 humans,           to eat?’ resolves the difficulties of      result has practical implications that 
               and the diets of both species are well     reconciling the unspecialized dentition    need to be dealt with. For the billion 
               known. Out of 664 identified plant         and reduced gut of humans with our         or more of the world’s poor who risk 
               species, humans used 11% as food,          dietary specialties. Provided we cook,     calorie shortage, knowledge of the 
               compared to 30% for chimpanzees [2].       meat and starchy foods are easily          energetic effects of cooking could have 
               With respect to item diversity, humans     chewed with our small, blunt teeth,        important consequences. 
               are better seen as dietary specialists,    and they are easily digested with our        Calories are only the start of the 
               not generalists, in keeping with our       reduced intestines, which at about         problem of what cooking has done to 
               supposed adaptation to high-quality        two-thirds the expected size for our       affect our foods and our feeding. To the 
               foods.                                     body weight are relatively smaller         extent that we prefer cooked foods, 
                 If meat, starch and variability cannot   than in any other primate. Cooking         where do our preferences come from? 
               of themselves account for human            also helps explain how humans can          Have our systems of taste, flavor or 
               dietary patterns at the level of the       culturally adapt to a wide variety         physical perception evolved in such a 
               species, each of the three hypotheses      of diets in different regions, thanks      way that we tend to like cooked foods 
               can nevertheless be easily incorporated    to local cuisines that have been           more than raw foods? How important 
               into a wider solution that I believe has   developed to improve different food        is the role of cooking in reducing the 
               not yet been sufficiently explored by      types.                                     toxicity or pathogenicity of foods, and 
               either nutrition science or evolutionary     The exciting consequence of              to what extent can such effects explain 
               biology. I suggest that the feature that   recognizing food-processing as a           our preferences? Have we adapted to 
               makes humans unique from a nutritional     core trait of the human lineage is that    mitigate the negative consequences 
               adaptive perspective is food processing    it raises intriguing questions about       of cooking, such as the production 
               in general, and cooking in particular.     numerous aspects of our nutritional        of potentially carcinogenic Maillard 
               When cooking began is still uncertain.     biology. What, precisely, does cooking     compounds or the reduction of some 
               Biological evidence suggests cooking       do to the nutritional quality of food? At  vitamins? And how does adaptation 
               might have been practised first by         present we have remarkably little idea.    to cooked food affect the evolution of 
               Homo around 2 million years ago, while     Cooking makes starch more digestible,      our gut microbiome and its functions? 
               archaeological evidence of the control     but we have only preliminary estimates     Such questions suggest that it is 
               of fire tapers gently away between         for the rise in net energy gain (at least  time to enrich our understanding of 
               250,000 and 1 million years ago, leaving   30% for several starchy foods [4]).        human nutrition with an evolutionary 
               no pointers for any specific date of       Cooking also seems likely to reduce        perspective that takes a new approach 
               origin. Nevertheless, the times when       the costs of fermenting fiber, such        to integrating data on humans with 
               cooking began, or became obligatory,       as resistant starches. How much, or        studies of other species. Instead of 
               are largely irrelevant to the question     how consistently, cooking increases        seeing humans as merely one more 
               of how humans are now adapted. The         the digestibility of proteins and lipids,  primate that has an unusual set of food 
               key point is not when humans became        however, is virtually unknown. The         choices, we should see ourselves as 
               adapted to processing their food, but      same lack of information applies           nutritionally unique. Our dependence 
               the claim that contemporary humans,        to how cooking affects the costs           on cooked food sets us apart, and the 
               uniquely among animals, require            of digestion, another process for          result is an exciting set of opportunities 
               cooked food to survive.                    which we have only preliminary data        to make new inroads into old questions 
                 There is much evidence that in           indicating that cooking will be found to   of how best to sustain ourselves. 
               order to achieve nutritional adequacy      make consistent contributions across 
               humans need their food cooked — or         diverse foods.                             References
               at least a high proportion of it must        Considering that cooking is a              1.  Ulijaszek, S., Mann, N., and Elton, S. (2012). 
               be cooked. Cooked evening meals            signature feature of the human diet            Evolving Human Nutrition (Cambridge University 
                                                                                                         Press: Cambridge).
               are the daily norm in every human          that may well contribute 50% or more              iyama, Y., and Koman, J. (1992). The flora 
                                                                                                       2.  Sug
               culture (Figure 1). There appear to        of the net energy absorbed in our              of Bossou: its utilization by chimpanzees and 
               be no cases of humans surviving on         bodies, our ignorance about these              humans. Afr. St. Monographs 13, 127–169.
                                                                                                            bnick, C., Strassner, C., Hoffmann, I. and 
                                                                                                       3.  Koe
               raw foods in the wild for more than a      topics is astonishing. Equally striking,       Leitzmann, C. (1999). Consequences of a 
               few weeks even when shipwrecked,           there is no calorie-counting system            longterm raw food diet on body weight and 
               lost or marooned. And raw-foodists         in use that can identify the effects of        menstruation: results of a questionnaire survey. 
                                                                                                         Ann. Nutr. Metab. 43, 69–79.
                                                                                                       .  Carmody, R., and Wrangham, R.W. (2009). The 
               (those who deliberately refuse all         cooking. The Atwater convention, by          4
               cooked foods) tend to be thin and          which energy values are assessed in            energetic significance of cooking. J. Hum. Evol. 
                                                                                                         57, 379–391.
               reproductively impaired even under         food tables in the USA and UK, tells us 
               the optimal conditions of eating           that whether our food is cooked or raw     Department of Human Evolutionary Biology, 
               (and normally lightly processing)          is immaterial to the number of calories    Harvard University, Cambridge, MA 02138, 
               domesticated foods from the global         per gram dry weight. That claim of         USA.
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...Current biology vol no r guest editorial unanswered that would help carry the humans cannot survive as pure integration substantially further what carnivores unless their meat contains are adapted to eat arctic levels of fat in form rich major consensus solution is layers blubber idea can evolution weakly general claim compared at best be only part for human nutrition other primates our species an originally tropical animal high quality omnivorous second hypothesis diets but does this mean uniquely a richard wrangham terms biological adaptation proportion starch more there particular kind food item than calories worldwide issue addresses or combination items estimated come from and scientific need thrive also how hunter gatherers every continent public interest covers many answer question affect regularly exploit foods such different perspectives since understanding anatomy tubers rhizomes corms seeds discipline research physiology evolutionary duplication genes amylase tends carried o...

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